When some sockets stop working but the lights are fine, the cause is usually simple: a tripped switch in the consumer unit, a blown fuse, or a faulty appliance. But a dead socket can also be the first sign of a loose or burnt connection inside the wall — and that is a fire risk. The checks below are safe to do yourself and will tell you which one you’re dealing with.
🔍 Safe Checks You Can Do Yourself
- Rule out the appliance. Plug a lamp or phone charger you know works into the dead socket. If it works, the problem is the appliance or its plug, not the socket.
- Work out which sockets are dead. Just one? Both halves of a double socket? A whole room, a floor, or the kitchen? Note it down — it’s the most useful clue for the electrician too.
- Look at the consumer unit (fuse box). Find any switch that is down or in the middle position. Unplug everything on the dead sockets, then push the switch back up once. If it stays up, plug things back in one at a time to find the culprit. If it trips again straight away, leave it off. See RCD keeps tripping? for what that means.
- Old fuse box with rewireable fuses? If a fuse wire has blown, it must only be replaced with wire of the same rating. If you’re not sure, don’t guess — call an electrician. An old board like this is worth reviewing anyway (see consumer unit replacement).
- Check the plug fuse. Swap it for a fuse of the same rating (usually 13 A for kettles and heaters, 3 A for lamps and chargers).
- Check the switches above the worktop. Kitchens often have switched spurs (fused connection units) for the fridge, washing machine or dishwasher. Make sure they’re on. Each one has its own fuse inside — if that has blown, an electrician can check why.
- Take extension leads out of the picture. A faulty lead or an overloaded socket strip can look like a dead socket.
🧩 What the Pattern Tells You
| What you see | Likely cause |
|---|---|
| A switch in the consumer unit has tripped | A faulty appliance, or a fault on that circuit (water, damaged cable) |
| One socket dead, nothing tripped | A faulty socket or a loose connection behind it |
| Only one half of a double socket works | A faulty socket — it needs replacing |
| Several sockets in a row dead, nothing tripped | A loose or burnt connection at the last working socket, which feeds the dead ones |
| Sockets work on and off, or flicker | A loose connection — treat as urgent, it can overheat |
| Kitchen appliance dead, other sockets fine | Switched spur off, or its fuse has blown |
🔥 Why a Dead Socket Shouldn’t Be Ignored
In most homes the sockets are on a ring circuit: the cable runs from the consumer unit, round every socket, and back again. If a connection fails somewhere, power can still reach most sockets from the other direction — so the house seems fine. But the cable on one side of the break is now carrying more than it was designed for, and the loose connection itself can get hot.
That’s why “we just stopped using that socket” isn’t a fix. An electrician will test the circuit, find the break, make it good, and check the rest of the ring so the same thing doesn’t happen somewhere else.
🔧 What the Electrician Will Do
- Find the circuit and isolate it safely.
- Test it — continuity of the ring, insulation and earthing — to pinpoint where the fault is, rather than opening every socket.
- Repair the connection, replace the damaged socket or cable, and re-test.
- Certificate: for repair work on a circuit you should get a Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate. Replacing a socket or repairing a circuit isn’t notifiable to Building Control.
Most of these faults are found and fixed in a single visit. If the testing shows a wider problem — old cables, no RCD protection — you’ll be told before any extra work is done.
🏠 For Landlords and Tenants
- Tenants: report dead sockets to your landlord or agent in writing, and don’t try to repair them yourself. Stop using a socket that shows any of the danger signs above.
- Landlords: you’re responsible for keeping the electrical installation in repair and proper working order. Get it checked promptly by a registered electrician and keep the certificate with your safety records.
- If the fault is found during an EICR and coded C1 or C2, it must be put right within 28 days. See EICR codes explained.
🏆 Dead Sockets Fixed by FE Maintenance
- NICEIC qualified electricians
- Emergency call-out from £99, 7 days a week
- Fixed price before any repair, and the fault explained in plain English
- Certificate emailed the same day for repair work
- Free online client portal — every certificate stored in one place, with expiry alerts. See how it works
We cover North, West and Central London. See our electrical services or ask for a quote.
General safety information, not a substitute for an inspection by a qualified electrician. Based on BS 7671:2018+A4:2026 and current guidance for England, as of October 2026.
Frequently Asked Questions
Sockets Still Dead? Get an Electrician Out
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